Due to their enormous popularity a lot of people are asking about the range of the Quanum Elite and FX797T micro FPV cameras/transmitters. I did some googling and didn’t find any solid tests so I conducted my own. My test area is a big and open grass field with no power lines or telephone towers nearby. I placed the Quanum Elite and FX797T on a tripod about 1.5m above the ground and then started walking away from with my Fatshark Attitude V2 equipped with a skew planar antenna from Banggood. Only one of the cameras was powered on when testing them to avoid frequency interference.
Quanum Elite range test
I got to around 100 meters away when the static started to take over. At around 110m I could barely see anything.
FX797T range test
I walked along the same path as I did with the Quanum Elite and at around 150 meters the image was almost gone. I would say that 140 meters was the maximum effective range during the test.
According to my tests the FX797T have almost 50% longer range wich surprised me since I though that the FX797T is just a rebranded Quanum Elite. They both use 25mw transmitters and the same type of cloverleaf antennas. To get a more accurate test result I would probably need to do the same tests but with more cameras since the quality of the hardware could vary alot. I’ve read somewhere that by using a patch antenna on the receiver someone managed to get over 300 meters range with the FX979T.
3D printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame for both 7mm and 8.5mm brushed motors
I just stumbled across this Tiny Whoop frame on Thingiverse and I’m planning to print one. Hopefully it can accommodate a Hubsan board instead of the Blade Inductrix one. You can find the parts I’m planning to use below. The frame can be printed both for 7mm motors and the mighty 8.5mm motors. The AUW seems to be around 37g with 7mm motors, 205mah lipo and a Quanum Elite camera. The frame files can be found on Thingiverse.
Banggood just announced a brand new micro FPV camera/transmitter combo module from Eachine called Eachine EF-01 AIO. I’m guessing that due to the tremendous increase in popularity of micro quads (Blad Induxtrix aka Tiny Whoop in particular) we’re going to see alot of micro cameras with built in transmitters being released to the market in the coming months. The new Eachine EF-01 AIO looks very promising since it’s almost 15$ cheaper than the Quanum Elite and Banggoods other micro FPV camera FX797T. The only downside is that it’s a bit on the heavy side with a weight of 6.8 grams but it looks like the metal casing is easily removable. It’s also compatible with the raceband frequencies. It has a button for switching bands, channels and PAL/NTSC mode and LED lights to show which band and channel it’s set to.
Sensor: 1/3 “CMOS
Lens: M8 800TVL Lens
Format: NTSC / PAL
Power consumption: 380mA @ 3.7V
Lens Mirror Diameter: 2.1mm IR coated FOV150 (horizontal)
Output Impedance: 75 Ohm
Output signal strength: 23 ~ 24dBm
Output Power: 25mW
Number of channels: 40
Antenna: RHCP circular polarization clover leaf antenna
Operating voltage: 3.6V ~ 5.5V
Band A 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725
Band B 5733 5752 5771 5790 5809 5828 5847 5866
Band E 5705 5685 5665 5645 5885 5905 5925 5945
Band F 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880
Band R 5658 5695 5732 5769 5806 5843 5880 5917
The main reason for why the Blade Inductrix is so popular except for it’s superb stability is probably it’s frame design. The ducts protects the propellers and allows the quad to bounce into tables, walls, cats and other obstacles that you might find flying in your home. I was thinking that with the help of a 3D-printed it must be possible to replicate the design of the Tiny Whoop. My idea is to use 8.5mm motors and a hubsan control board. The FPV setup will of course be the Quanum Elite or the FX797T micro fpv camera from Banggood. You can also convert a full Hubsan X4 H107C and convert into the diy Tiny Whoop.
The frame weight is currently 12g printed in PLA.
The design is not done yet but as soon as I have a working prototype I will upload the design to Thingiverse.
The Quanum Elite has recently opened up a whole new world making it easy to get started with micro FPVing.
The latest trend in the FPV world is undoubtedly brushed micro FPVing (especially the Tiny Whoop Inductrix build). What makes the micro FPV quads so popular is their small size, low weight, cheap parts and the ability to fly FPV indoors around your house and garden. If you like me have some micro quads lying around collecting dust (Like the Hubsan X4 h107 or the Eachine H8) you can easily convert them into micro FPV quads. The most popular micro fpv transmitter/camera combo is called Quanum Elite and is sold by Hobbyking. Banggood also carries their version called FX797T which is basically just a rebranded Quanum Elite. It is possible to build your own micro transmitter/camera fpv pack but it’s hard to get a clear fpv signal because of motor noise. To filter the motor noise in a diy setup you MUST use a Polulu regulator (increasing the complexity, cost and shipping time). A ready to go micro fpv transmitter/camera combo is not much more expensive and much easier to use.
As I mentioned earlier I had an old Hubsan x4 clone (7mm motors) collecting dust and when I saw the Quanum Elite I knew I was in for alot of fun. The first this I did was just tape to Quanum Elite to the top of my Hubsan and hooked it up to the main battery. I took it out to my garden and after a couple of batteries I was racing around the house.
After a while I felt that I wanted more power and started researching motor and frame options. The hubsan control board is capable of running the 8.5mm motors (even the 7mm motor version board) and they are so much more powerful. I decided to use these 8.5mm motors from Banggood and this 3d-printed micro quad fpv frame. The Hubsan control board fits perfectly in that frame and the motors are just friction fitted which means they will break lose in a crash instead of bending. It’s lightweight and there’s alot of room for both the lipo and camera on the top deck. The Quanum Elite is powered of my main lipo and I’ve never seen any motor interferance in my picture. I’m currently using 300mah lipos but the frame and motors can easily lift 500mah or 600mah lipos aswell.
The Quanum Elite is just attached with double sided tape and the lipo is held down with a household rubber band.
Printing and assembling everything to the frame is done in under two hours which is good because if you manage to break it then you can quickly have a new one flying again.
I’m planning to modify the frame a little in the future to make it even more sleek. I’ll upload the files here and on Thingiverse.
The best part of using a micro camera/transmitter combo like the Quanum Elite is that it can run of the same lipo that is powered the rest of the quad.
Upgrades and replacement parts for you ZMR250 or QAV250 frame
The ZMR250 is one of the most proven and tested fpv racing frames around. It was one of the first designs of the new generation FPV drones and with several upgrades it’s still very popular. Even though it’s one of my early frames I still find myself bringing it to the airfield every time I go out to fly.
The great this about fpv racing is that you can upgrade or change almost every part of your quad and still fly it. That’s good news since crashes and hard landings are unfortunately inevitable when you are flying FPV. Even if your quad/drone doesn’t break you will probably reach a point where you want to upgrade some parts to increase the performance like speed, agility or handling. I’ve smashed my ZMR250 frame into concrete and asphalt several times resulting in both broken and chipped arms. Luckily there’s replacements to buy.
I’ve gathered a list of parts that you can use to upgrade your ZMR250 or QAV250 frame with.
If you are running your FPV gear on the same lipo that is powering your motors there is a high chance that you have problems with noise lines and interference in your fpv video.
This is very common and you probably recognize it from this image:
The reason for this is because of noise that your brushless motors and ESCs output when they are under load as you increase the throttle. As your motors rev up or down to balance your multicopter they are make the current fluctuate. The varying current makes your lipo voltage to go up and down resulting in noise in your FPV video.
Luckily there is a simple fix to this problem! The name of the solution is a LC filter. A LC filter is basically an inductor/coil “L” and a capacitor “C” working together. The inductor smoothens out the current flowing through it and the capacitor smoothens out the voltage. There is not much more to it besides the plugs – it’s almost like magic.
Items needed to build the LC filter:
Capacitor (The one I used was rated for 35v and 1000uF)
The ferrite ring is the same as what is used on most ESC rc wires. When choosing a capacitor make sure it’s rated for more voltage than you are planning on using. It’s such a cheap component. Regarding the uF rating there seems to be little to no evidence of how it affects the performance of the filter, I used one rated 1000uF.
This is how I built mine:
Step 1 – Gather all parts and prepare you soldering iron.
I really like working with silicon wires. They are flexible, easy to strip and solder. You can use this tool for stripping them.
Step 2 – Coil the positive wire around the ferrite ring.
You should wrap it tight together without overlapping them. This is what I’ve been told and how I’m doing it. Some people overlap the wire without any signal problems.
Step 3 – Solder JST plug and the ferrite ring
In this step you can decide how long you want the JST wires to be. As long as you keep them within a reasonable length it doesn’t matter much. Be sure to solder the positive wires to the + pin of the capacitor. The negative (-) pin is often marked on the side. The order of coil and capacitor of the LC filter should be: lipo -> coil -> capacitor -> fpv gear.
Step 4 – Solder the negative wires
This is the last step unless you want to cover it with tape or shrink tube. You should not leave the capacitor pins exposed as it could be short-circuted by metal or carbon fibre. I covered them with two dabs of melt glue.
Step 5 – Check polarity!
You should ALWAYS check polarity of a component that you’ve soldered before plugging it into your application. Use a multimeter like this one to make sure that there is no short circuit or reversed polarity.
If everything seems alright it’s ready to be plugged in and tested. Enjoy a much clearer video feed!
Quanum have revolutionized the RC market by it’s really cheap prices and somewhat good quality products. Their FPV googles kit is no exception – at a price of ~29.99$ at Hobbyking it’s a real bargain. The goggles comes as a kit which includes the monitor and foam parts so you have to build it yourself. In my world this is another word for mods! I’ve actually built my own monitor-in-a-box-fpv-goggles before from scratch but it was really poor and the monitor blacked out at the slightest signal loss.
I wanted a compact setup because I didn’t like the fact that I had to bring all the FPV gear as seperate parts which I had to set up when I got to the flying field. What I really like about fpv goggles like the Fatsharks is that it’s compact and you don’t have to worry about being tethered to your receiver attached to a pole. With that being said I had a goal of building a really cheap but compact and not so goofy looking setup with wires all over the place. The Quanums are super cheap fpv goggles and the perfect start for a budget fpv setup.
If you don’t have any FPV gear yet you can order the goggles with all the FPV accessories such as transmitter, receiver, camera and wires for 119.35$. I ordered just the bare kit for 29.99$ since I already have the other parts.
This is the beginning of the mods. I attached a flexible band into the top slot and back around my head to relieve some pressure to my face from the bottom edge of the box.
On with the mods!
I used the same flexible band to attach the Boscam receiver to the side of the box. The band is just pushed through the foam and sewn together on the inside.
This is how the Boscam receiver was mounted. It’s a light weight mount that’s flexible and makes it easy to detach the rx.
The above image shows the inside wiring of the Quanum FPV Googles black wire. The bulky connectors that’s attached to the monitor didn’t suit my project so I decided to cut them off. The inside of the wire contains four different smaller wires identified by their color:
red: + power in
black: – or ground
white and yellow: analog signal in
I ran the monitor cable under the box and up through the “floor” of it. In this step I also mounted a JST plug in the side to allow for easy powering the setup:
You’ll need to power the monitor through red and black wire with 12v. To hook up the signal wires you need to connect yellow OR white to your video receivers signal out as well as ground. In the bottom of this post there is a schematic of the wiring that I did.
This is how I connected the monitor and receiver. I used this cable, cut off all the plugs and two wires. I stripped the last wire and connected signal (yellow) to signal (yellow) of the monitor. You also need to connect the two ground wires. It’s hard to see in the picture above but that’s how It’s done. In this step it’s ok to solder the signal wires and cover them in shrink tube but don’t do it for the ground because there are more things you need to hook up there.
This is how I routed the external cables into the Quanum goggles. I used the included dc power cable to power my Boscam receiver. I cut it to a shorter length and stripped the end to expose the + and ground wires inside of it.
The wiring looks like a mess but it’s super simple: All red+ wires are soldered together, all black- ground (including the naked ground of the signal cable) are soldered together and the two yellow signal wires are also soldered together. All the soldering joints are covered by this shrink tube. Before powering the system make sure to test it for shorts! I used this multimeter for this before shrinking the tubes.
System test successful! I didn’t power my transmitter here hence the “no signal” message. That’s actually one of the greatest feature of the Quanum goggles – the monitor doesn’t go to a black screen when there is a signal loss like most other monitors in this size. It just keeps showing the image until the “very end”. In this picture you can also see the head of the copper nail I used to secure the top head strap to prevent it from being pulled out.
Even though the wires are inside of the box you don’t see them when wearing the goggles.
Side view of the JST plug to power the system.
The lipo is attached to the wide headstrap with velcro. The glue actually stuck to the cloth of the strap pretty good but I think I’ll secure it with some stitches anyways. You really don’t want this to fall off when flying!
The last thing to do is to add some sort of soft material around the edges of the goggles. This will increase the comfort as well as help blocking out the sun from the screen.
As I’ve stated before the Quanum FPV goggles are a GREAT bargain! Combined with the Boscam rc305 200mw 5.8ghz receiver it’s a great set which can be made very compact and easy to bring in your backpack. Compared to other fpv goggles in the market these are really cheap but still performs well. There is a reason they went on a backorder in under 24 hours when released.
– The screen doesn’t go to black screen at signal loss.
– Easy to build.
– Very moddable.
– Multiple lenses with different strength included in the package.
– I had to cut a lot of foam to make them fit over my normal sized nose.
– No included top headstrap. I added this myself
– No good place to hide wires.
– Bulky connectors
The dramatic popularity increase in FPV drone racing has led to a wide variety of frames, kits and parts to buy. Choosing a 250 racing quad to buy can be a daunting task depending on what you are after. If you are looking for a starter racing quad, budget, just for tossing around or as a spare backup then the Aliexpress ZMR250 is the perfect deal. At the price of 73$ it leaves you well under the 100$ mark. You should note that this kit doesn’t include radio, battery, charger or FPV gear. You’ll have to buy those things separately if you don’t already own them. I prefer it that way because then you can decide yourself which radio to use as well as charger and lipos. If you do look for a ZMR250 kit including a radio and receiver then Banggood has one for around 166$. I personally haven’t tested it but by the looks of it it seems like a solid choice!
One late night I stumbled upon a post on Rcgroups about a this super cheap ZMR250 kit for at Aliexpress. It’s a 250 fpv racing quadcopter. I ordered one because I was interested in how a cheap 250 fpv racer would perform in terms of quality and flight characteristics.
In this post I will show you how I built this kit and modified it to fit my taste and needs.
When doing builds like this I always use my iron soldering clamp stand. I can’t stress this enough how easier it makes all the soldering jobs because lets face it – sometimes your two hands just isn’t enough. Especially when dealing with these small components and wires where good soldering bonds means everything. I bought mine at a local hardware store but Banggood have a similar one. It really becomes your third and fourth arm.
12A Simonk esc x 4
– Max continuous load: ~11 amps
– Burst Current: 16A/10sec
– BEC: 5v/1amp max
– Lipo Cells: 2 to 3 cells
– Weight: 10g
– Dimensions: 24mm L x 18mm W x 7mm H (29mm in length including capacitor)
I started working on the arms and motors because I wanted to get the esc/motor soldering and wiring done first.
I decided that I wanted to solder the motor wires directly to the ESCs to have minimal wires. I first tested the motor direction by hooking up the wires with crocodile clips. This allowed me to reverse the direction without soldering anything. Make sure which directions the motors are supposed to run and that the exposed wires/clips doesn’t short out. Two of them are clockwise and two are counter-clockwise.
After getting the polarization right I put bits of tape on the arms and drew how to wire the motors to the escs. You can see this in the above picture. It saved me alot of trouble and I didnt need to resolder anything.
I wrapped the ESCs tight with electrical tape.
Make sure you test the ESCs individually before wrapping them up.
I wanted to keep the wiring and power distribution board sandwiched between the two bottom plates to reduce the rats nest-look of the finished quad. To do this I had to add spacers and longer m3 screws for attaching the arms. The spacers I used is the plastic adapters you get when buying propellers. They are pretty weak and therefore only a temporarly solution until I find something better.
Next step was to solder all the components to the included power distribution board. That includes the ESCs power wires, JST plug and wires for powering the FPV system, the included LED lights and the main lipo cables with XT60 plug. This is pertty straight forward and most of the job is stripping the wires. When stripping your wires I really recommend this wire stripping tool.
IMPORTANT! Always test your Power Distribution Board for shorts before plugging in your battery. I recommend using a voltmeter with a beeper such as this one. It has a setting which will make a beep when current is flowing between the two terminals. This way you can make sure that there is no short between the + and – pads and that all the ESCs are fed with power. This is also a good time to mark the ESCs servo wires if you plan on routing them between the bottom plates as I did. This way you know which ESC goes where on your control board.
Next step is to prepare the second bottom plate. Depending on how you want to place things and which equipment you plan on using this step could be different when you build it yourself. I am putting the CC3D on nylon spacers as I plan on placing my 6ch receiver underneath it to save some space. I’m using the Eachine 700tvl ET200 5.8G 32CH 200mW transmitter for this frame as it’s small and very lightweight. I’m powering the transmitter from my PDB via a LC filter that is shown in the image below. I will be making a post of how to build one as it’s really simple and you should really consider building one as it’s filtering the power from your lipo which could be polluted by interference from your motors and ESCs.
My FPV camera (which I don’t remember where I bought it, probably Hobbyking) is mounted to the camera holder with rubber bands. This was first a temporary solution but then I figured that it’s a pretty good way to secure it since it’s flexible and more crash resilient. I rather change out some rubber bands instead of a camera anyways. This way you can also slide some foam in in the top to make it tilted upwards. The camera mounting sheet have two tabs in the bottom and top which slides into the top and bottom frame plates to secure it.
In the above image you can see that I’ve switched out two of the “quick lock” nuts to normal ones as the cones were slightly unbalanced. I will swap out the remaining two as soon as I find some counter rotating ones.
Being such a cheap kit one can imagine it being a nightmare to assemble. This is actually not the case, I found it really fun to build and easy to customize to your own needs. Sure you might have to use other screws or special parts but most of the time you have these things lying around somewhere. The frame parts and holes aligned which made it easy to fit together. I would recommend buying nylon spacers to use when building this kit. There is no manual or instructions included but most of the parts are easy to tell where they should be attached. If you are struggling with any parts feel free to contact me or look at images. I would totally recommend this kit if you are looking for a cheap 250 racing quad kit. As I wrote earlier you need your own transmitter/receiver, battery, FPV gear and charger to get this quad flying.
– Easy to build
– Looks good
– Good fit
– Most things included
– Powerful motors
– Unbalanced lock nuts for the propellers.
– No manual