My modded Quanum FPV goggles
Quanum have revolutionized the RC market by it’s really cheap prices and somewhat good quality products. Their FPV googles kit is no exception – at a price of ~29.99$ at Hobbyking it’s a real bargain. The goggles comes as a kit which includes the monitor and foam parts so you have to build it yourself. In my world this is another word for mods! I’ve actually built my own monitor-in-a-box-fpv-goggles before from scratch but it was really poor and the monitor blacked out at the slightest signal loss.
Monitor: TFT LCD non-bluescreen
Screen size: 4.3in (6:9 or 4:3 switchable)
Format: PAL/NTSC supported
Supply voltage: 7~13V
I wanted a compact setup because I didn’t like the fact that I had to bring all the FPV gear as seperate parts which I had to set up when I got to the flying field. What I really like about fpv goggles like the Fatsharks is that it’s compact and you don’t have to worry about being tethered to your receiver attached to a pole. With that being said I had a goal of building a really cheap but compact and not so goofy looking setup with wires all over the place. The Quanums are super cheap fpv goggles and the perfect start for a budget fpv setup.
If you don’t have any FPV gear yet you can order the goggles with all the FPV accessories such as transmitter, receiver, camera and wires for 119.35$. I ordered just the bare kit for 29.99$ since I already have the other parts.
This is the beginning of the mods. I attached a flexible band into the top slot and back around my head to relieve some pressure to my face from the bottom edge of the box.
On with the mods!
I used the same flexible band to attach the Boscam receiver to the side of the box. The band is just pushed through the foam and sewn together on the inside.
This is how the Boscam receiver was mounted. It’s a light weight mount that’s flexible and makes it easy to detach the rx.
The above image shows the inside wiring of the Quanum FPV Googles black wire. The bulky connectors that’s attached to the monitor didn’t suit my project so I decided to cut them off. The inside of the wire contains four different smaller wires identified by their color:
red: + power in
black: – or ground
white and yellow: analog signal in
I ran the monitor cable under the box and up through the “floor” of it. In this step I also mounted a JST plug in the side to allow for easy powering the setup:
You’ll need to power the monitor through red and black wire with 12v. To hook up the signal wires you need to connect yellow OR white to your video receivers signal out as well as ground. In the bottom of this post there is a schematic of the wiring that I did.
This is how I connected the monitor and receiver. I used this cable, cut off all the plugs and two wires. I stripped the last wire and connected signal (yellow) to signal (yellow) of the monitor. You also need to connect the two ground wires. It’s hard to see in the picture above but that’s how It’s done. In this step it’s ok to solder the signal wires and cover them in shrink tube but don’t do it for the ground because there are more things you need to hook up there.
This is how I routed the external cables into the Quanum goggles. I used the included dc power cable to power my Boscam receiver. I cut it to a shorter length and stripped the end to expose the + and ground wires inside of it.
The wiring looks like a mess but it’s super simple: All red+ wires are soldered together, all black- ground (including the naked ground of the signal cable) are soldered together and the two yellow signal wires are also soldered together. All the soldering joints are covered by this shrink tube. Before powering the system make sure to test it for shorts! I used this multimeter for this before shrinking the tubes.
System test successful! I didn’t power my transmitter here hence the “no signal” message. That’s actually one of the greatest feature of the Quanum goggles – the monitor doesn’t go to a black screen when there is a signal loss like most other monitors in this size. It just keeps showing the image until the “very end”. In this picture you can also see the head of the copper nail I used to secure the top head strap to prevent it from being pulled out.
Even though the wires are inside of the box you don’t see them when wearing the goggles.
Side view of the JST plug to power the system.
The lipo is attached to the wide headstrap with velcro. The glue actually stuck to the cloth of the strap pretty good but I think I’ll secure it with some stitches anyways. You really don’t want this to fall off when flying!
The last thing to do is to add some sort of soft material around the edges of the goggles. This will increase the comfort as well as help blocking out the sun from the screen.
As I’ve stated before the Quanum FPV goggles are a GREAT bargain! Combined with the Boscam rc305 200mw 5.8ghz receiver it’s a great set which can be made very compact and easy to bring in your backpack. Compared to other fpv goggles in the market these are really cheap but still performs well. There is a reason they went on a backorder in under 24 hours when released.
– The screen doesn’t go to black screen at signal loss.
– Easy to build.
– Very moddable.
– Multiple lenses with different strength included in the package.
– I had to cut a lot of foam to make them fit over my normal sized nose.
– No included top headstrap. I added this myself
– No good place to hide wires.
– Bulky connectors