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Eachine e010 FPV racerstar 615 motor upgrade

Eachine e010 Racerstar 615 6x15mm 59000RPM motor upgrade

As many other have noticed the Eachine E010 tiny whoop out of the box is a little underpowered if you add FPV gear. Some have reported that cutting the propellers to two blades instead of four helps a little but I didn’t find that mod alone satisfying. Instead I ordered the Racerstar 615 6x15mm 59000RPM Coreless Motor and soldered them in place. The difference is night and day! Now I can stay airborne much longer and have better punch and agility. Indoor fpv racing has become much more fun now.

e010 upgraded motors
I prefer cutting the propellers to 2 blades

I uploaded a short video to Youtube where I display the punchout after upgrading the motors to the Racerstar 615 59000RPM:

Replacing the motors

It’s really easy to replace the stock motors with these you just have to unsolder the wires (note which wire/color that goes to which pad on the flight controller). Then just firmly but gently push the old ones out of their mount and carefully push in the new ones. Make sure to first tug in the wires through the motor mount since you push the motors with the bottom first. Be very careful with the wires, they are fragile and tend to break inside the motor. For this reason I decided not to cut the wires to the correct length as you can see in the picture above. You could ad a small dab of hot glue to the bottom of each motor to reduce the strain on the wires.


I’m very happy with this upgrade, the motors are really cheap but still gives such an impressive performance boost. As I’ve stated earlier it’s much more agile, have better punch out and the flight time increased from barely 2 minutes of slow flight to over 4 minutes of fast flying. Carrying a FPV camera like the Eachine tx03 is no problem.
I fly my upgraded e010 on the Giant power 180mAh 25C lipo.

Get the motors before they run out of stock! Buy them here

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73$ ZMR250 kit motor and esc upgrade to DYS SE2205 and DYS BLheli XM20A

Upgrade of ZMR250 kit with DYS SE2205 motors and DYS XM20A escs

motors connected

After flying my cheap ZMR250 73$ kit for a while (review here) I began looking around for upgrades that could enhance it’s already good flight performance. I had previously changed the control board from cc32 to a Naze32 with betaflight which was a well worth upgrade. This time I was looking for more power and a more convinient build so I decided that the motors needed be changed. To make the upgrade easy I also bought a Diatone V7.3 PDB with LC filter and new ESCs. Since the original ESCs were only 10A rated and with old firmware (simonK) it made sense to change them. This way I could also extract the original powerplant (PDB, motors and ESCS) and drop in the new without the need to desolder, clean and resolder anything.
After reading alot of reviews and carefully looking at thrust/amps graphs I decided to use the DYS SE2205 2300KV motors together with the DYS XM20A BLHeli 20A ESCs.

With this upgrade I also wanted to prove that the ZMR250, despise it’s “age”, is still a great frame!

new parts

The parts I used for this project

esc wiring


Soldering all the parts together was a breeze and powering the system is easy thanks to the new PDB. It filters both the 5v and 12v output which means you can power all your parts including FPV gear from it.
I’m very pleased with this upgrade. Beside a massive power and speed upgrade the quad turned out much more stable and more responsive. I think that this is thanks to the more powerful motors but even more so thanks to the upgraded ESCs and Naze flight controller. The firmware running on those are awesome and easy to configure.

If you have an “old” zmr250 I really recommend you to do this upgrade. This difference is night and day.

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Realacc x210 build and review

Realacc x210 build and review

Besides the Eachine Wizard the Realacc x210 is probably the most built, flown and discussed fpv quads of 2016 and 2017. It’s an X-type frame with almost symmetrical arms which makes the tuning process easier. The manufacturers of the Realacc can’t take any credits for the design since it’s a direct clone of the QAV-X Charpu frame. Cloning might be frown upon but it’s the currently the state of this industry and everyone is doing it. If you disregard the fact that it’s a clone it’s a really great quad which both beginners and advanced pilots can enjoy.

Image of assembled x210

After reading a lot of positive posts about the it I ordered the ARF kit and started building it. When I ordered it there were two separate kits to choose from, the 2300kv 20A kit and the 2600kv 30a kit. They are pretty much identical besides the motors and ESCs. In theory the 2600kv version should be a little faster but also more power hungry which means higher C rating lipos and shorter flight time. The 2300kv seemed like a very balanced option so I went for that one. Now there are even more versions of this popular quad which you can browser here

In this post I will try to make a brief review and describe the build process.

Whats included in the package

4mm Realacc X210 carbon fibre frame
F3 Flight Control Acro 6DOF
Racerstar Racing Edition BR2205 2300KV 2-4S Brushless Motor
Racerstar RS20A V2 20A Blheli_S BB2 48MHZ OPTO 2-4S ESC
7 Pairs Kingkong 5X4X3 5040 5 Inch 3-Blade Rainbow Colorful Propeller
Matek PDB-XT60 5V & 12V

Frame specs

Motor to motor distance: 214mm
Thickness: 4mm
Weight (inc. hardware): 93g

Motor specs

BR2205 2300KV Brushless Motor
KV: 2300
Max thrust: 950g (4s), 660 (3s)
Max amps: 27.6A (4s), 19.2 (3s)
Shaft diameter: M5
Weight: 28g

Esc specs

Racerstar RS20A V2 20A Blheli_S
Current: 20A
Burst current: 25A
Cells: 2-4S
Firmware: Blheli_S
Weight: 5.67g
Size:2 7*12mm

PDB specs

Current: 25A * 4
Burst current: 30A * 4

5v BEC

For RC receiver, FC and OSD.
Voltage: 5.0 +/- 0.1VDC


Linear regulator for VTX and FPV camera
Voltage: 12.0 +/- 0.3VDC

Additional components

To get this quad up and running you need to add some components such as RC receiver and lipo. Below is a list with the components I use or recommend:
RC transmitter and receiver: Flysky FS-i6X with X6B i-BUS-receiver
FPV camera: Sony Super Had II or 600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS FPV 170 Degree (requires custom mount)
FPV transmitter (vtx): Eachine TS5823L 5.8G 200mw 40CH
Vtx antenna: Skyzone 5.8GHz RHCP 4 Leaf FPV Antenna (RP-SMA male!)
FPV goggles: Fatshark Dominator V3 or Eachine VR D2 goggles
Lipo: Giant Power Dinogy 1300mAh 14.8V 4S 65C
Charger: iMAX B6 digital charger
OSD: Micro MinimOSD

Building the Realacc x210 kit

Knolling the frame parts.

ESC closeup
I started by mounting all the motors to the frame and cut their wires to appropriate length. The next step was to solder the wires to the ESCs. The easiest way to do this is to pre-tin the wires and the ESCs soldering pads. Then you just press the wire against the pad, apply heat and a little bit of solder and it will form a strong bond. Remember to cover your ESCs pads with some shrink tube before soldering the ESC to the PDB. If you miss this step you can just cover it with some electrical tape afterwards.

Motors soldered
Just like I soldered the motor wires to the ESCs I soldered the ESCs to the PDB.

The rest of the build is pretty easy. I added a Micro MinimOSD which I can unplug when connecting the board to a computer. When I ordered this kit the camera that I wanted to use was out of stock, so I built it with the 600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS micro camera. Recently I upgraded to the Sony Super Had II which is a really good camera . I also went with the X6B i-BUS Receiver that was included in the Flysky FS-i6X package.


This hobby has come a long way since David Windestahl introduced us to his KK-board controlled tricopter. This quad is a living proof of that.
All in all this is a very good racing / freestyle quad. It has lots of power and the frame is very well designed. It’s important to note that this is not a complete kit with everything you need to get started. As I mentioned earlier you need extra components such as battery, charger and rc gear etc. The quad is easy to build and can be customized to fit your style. You also get a battery strap to secure the battery on the bottom side of the frame.


– If you break an arm you’ll have to replace the whole body.
– This version of the frame does not have an adjustable HD camera mount.
– It can be tricky to mount the fpv camera due to space issues.

Buy it here

2300kv 20A version
2600kv 30A version

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Fatshark Attitude V2 Nexwave raceband receiver module upgrade

Upgrading to a Nexwave raceband receiver in Fatshark Attitude V2


I’m very happy with my Fatshark Attitude V2 goggles. They are small, not as bulky as the single screen goggles such as The Quanum FPV goggles or the Eachine VR 007 goggles. Although when buying the Attitude V2s I quickly realized that the default fatshark channels wasn’t enough for me. I wanted to be able to use both the Boscam band and raceband. I have a seperate Boscam rc305 receiver that I use together with a 7″ monitor for some applications. I didn’t want to constantly change transmitter band/channel depending on if I wanted to use my monitor or Fatsharks so I decided to change the stock receiver module in my Fatshark Attitude V2 to the Fatshark Dominator Reciever 5.8GHz 32 Channels RX Module RaceBand

Nexwave 5.8ghz 32 channels raceband receiver module specs

Voltage: 5V
RSSI output voltage: 0.4V~2.2V
Video Format: NTSC/PAL
Antenna connectors: SMA
Weight: 20g (with omni antenna)
Dimensions: 40mm (L) x 25mm (W) x 10mm (H) – add length of 35mm by counting the antenna angled 90 °

Frequency table

0-0 Band 1 FS/IRC 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880
0-1 Band 2 Boscam E 5705 5685 5665 5645 5885 5905 5925 5945
1-0 Band 3 Boscam A 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725
1-1 Band 4 RaceBand 5658 5695 5732 5769 5706 5843 5880 5917

Installing it into the Fatshark goggles

Step 1 – Open the goggles

The first step is to open up the goggles case. You need to remove the rubber eye cups, some screws and the image settings adjustment knob on top of the goggles. You must be very careful when seperating the two halves so that no cables are caught and ripped of their sockets or soldering pads.
There is a youtube video explaining this process here:

Step 2 – Remove the old receiver module

Old receiver module
In this step you need to remove the whole PCB containing the receiver module from the Fatshark goggles. There is two cables that you need to unplug and then you can just pull it out.

Step 3 – Solder the new Nexwave module to the receiver board/PCB

Soldering module
I contacted the Fatshark technical support and ordered a new “Attitude V2 receiver replacement board” through them. This way I didn’t have to desolder the old receiver module from the PCB and if I ever need to I can quickly insert the old module. The replacement board costs around 30$ and is well worth it.
Soldering the new Newwave receiver module to the board is an easy task, just make sure thate the module is flush to the pcb before soldering. I fixed mine with some electrical tape and it ended up flush with the board.

Step 4 – Drill a hole for the band change DIP-switches

hole drilled for dip switches
To be able to change which band the receiver should operate on you need to be able to access the small DIP-switches below the antenna plug or it defeates the purpose of this mod. The easiest way is to CAREFULLY drill a hole in the fatshark goggles and change the switches with a needle. Use a caliper to measure where the hole need to be. I used a 6mm drill.

Step 5 – Insert the new receiver module and check hole alignment

receiver module dry fit
Plug in the cables to the receiver board again and gently push the board into place in the goggles. It’s a snug fit but not much pressure is needed, make sure that no cables are in the way.
When the module is is place you can actually test your goggles to make sure that everything is working. Double check that the cables are plugged in the wrong way and that no loose screws are shorting anything before plugging in the battery.

receiver module in place
Tada! now you should be able to match the frequency with your transmitter and get a solid video feed.

Step 6 – Assemble the goggles

fatshark attitude v2 assembled
Carefully put everything back together and you’re done.
I 3d-printed a faceplate and attached it to the goggles for a more comfortable fit, I will soon post a guide on that mod.

Link to the Fatshark Dominator Reciever 5.8GHz 32 Channels RX Module RaceBand

Recommended antenna

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Eachine e010 Tiny Whoop FPV conversion

Adding FPV gear to Eachine e010

e010 with FPV camera equipment

With a price of around 15$ it’s no wonder that the Eachine e010 tiny whoop is the Blade Inductrix killer. Sure you are limited in transmitter options and the control is not as precise as the Blade Inductrix but for a fraction of the price it’s a no-brainer, you’ll have more money to spend on upgrades, spare parts and even whole quads. If you want to know the specs of it you can read my previous Eachine e010 post. I preordered one when they were announced and received it at launch. I took it out of the box (had another lipo precharged) bound it and flew it line-of-sight. That was fun but since my plan for it was to add FPV I cranked up my soldering iron and made some room on my tinkering table.

Parts list

Instructions for FPV upgrade

Step 1 – change battery plug

battery plug

To be able to do this modification you need to remove the plastic shell of the e010. It’s dead weight anyways. It pops off easily.
The 180mah lipos I wanted to use have the small JST battery plug. Therefore I had to change the existing one. I bought this 2 In 5 JST Plug Connector where I could source a connector and solder it to the e010 board. As you can see in the picture I stripped the wires so that they would protrude on the other side of the board where I could connect the camera. Be sure to check the polarity more than one time before plugging in a battery!

Step 2 – add camera power plug

camera power plug

Since I power my FPV camera module with the same type of battery plug that I removed previously I soldered it to the top of the board instead. Be careful with the polarity when doing this step or you’ll end up frying you camera. I will probably solder the camera directly to the pins instead of using connectors to save weight. With a small quad like this every gram counts! The downside of soldering it directly is that it’s harder to move to another model.

Step 3 – attach the camera

e010 with FPV equipment

The final step is the attach the camera to the Eachine e010. I used double sided tape to mount it directly to the board. I plan to 3d-print a mount instead like this one from Thingiverse.

Step 4 – fly!

Now it’s time to fly it. Make sure you have the center of gravity in the middle of the frame or it would result in power and flight time loss since some of the motors would have to work extra hard to compensate.


I’ve heard some reports of increased flight time and power when changing to the Chaoli CL 615 6/15mm motors. I’m sure that being able to use 7mm motors would also be a benefit. I’ve also seen someone cutting the quad blade propellers to two blade to gain more flight time but lose some punch. It’s all a matter or taste.

Replacement parts

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Another 3D-printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame

3D printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame for both 7mm and 8.5mm brushed motors

3d printed tiny whoop frame
Image from Thingiverse

I just stumbled across this Tiny Whoop frame on Thingiverse and I’m planning to print one. Hopefully it can accommodate a Hubsan board instead of the Blade Inductrix one. You can find the parts I’m planning to use below. The frame can be printed both for 7mm motors and the mighty 8.5mm motors. The AUW seems to be around 37g with 7mm motors, 205mah lipo and a Quanum Elite camera. The frame files can be found on Thingiverse.

Suggested parts list

Motors: 8.5mm motors
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX797T

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3D-printed Tiny Whoop frame project

DIY Tiny Whoop frame

3d printed tiny whoop frame

The main reason for why the Blade Inductrix is so popular except for it’s superb stability is probably it’s frame design. The ducts protects the propellers and allows the quad to bounce into tables, walls, cats and other obstacles that you might find flying in your home. I was thinking that with the help of a 3D-printed it must be possible to replicate the design of the Tiny Whoop. My idea is to use 8.5mm motors and a hubsan control board. The FPV setup will of course be the Quanum Elite or the FX797T micro fpv camera from Banggood. You can also convert a full Hubsan X4 H107C and convert into the diy Tiny Whoop.

The frame weight is currently 12g printed in PLA.

The design is not done yet but as soon as I have a working prototype I will upload the design to Thingiverse.

Suggested parts list

Motors: 8.5mm motors
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX979T

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Brushed micro FPV quad build with Quanum Elite FX797T

DIY micro fpv quad with Quanum Elite

3d printed micro fpv quad

The Quanum Elite has recently opened up a whole new world making it easy to get started with micro FPVing.
The latest trend in the FPV world is undoubtedly brushed micro FPVing (especially the Tiny Whoop Inductrix build). What makes the micro FPV quads so popular is their small size, low weight, cheap parts and the ability to fly FPV indoors around your house and garden. If you like me have some micro quads lying around collecting dust (Like the Hubsan X4 h107 or the Eachine H8) you can easily convert them into micro FPV quads. The most popular micro fpv transmitter/camera combo is called Quanum Elite and is sold by Hobbyking. Banggood also carries their version called FX797T which is basically just a rebranded Quanum Elite. It is possible to build your own micro transmitter/camera fpv pack but it’s hard to get a clear fpv signal because of motor noise. To filter the motor noise in a diy setup you MUST use a Polulu regulator (increasing the complexity, cost and shipping time). A ready to go micro fpv transmitter/camera combo is not much more expensive and much easier to use.


Motors: 8.5mm motors
Frame: 3d printed micro quad frame from Thingiverse
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX797T

You can also just buy the complete Hubsan X4 H107C where the rc transmitter is also included.

Quanum Elite camera

Quanum Elite specs

Trasmitter power: 25mw
Input voltage: 2.5-5V, perfect for 1s power
Camera resolution: 600TVL
Output resolution: VGA 640×480
Field of view (fov): 120 degrees
Antenna: 3 lobe right hand circular polarized
Frequency: 5.8Ghz 5 bands 40 channels
Frequency band: 6558-5917
Size: 21x19x17mm (with case, excluding antenna)
Weight with case: 4.5g
Weight without case: 3.5g

Band F: 5740, 5760, 5780, 5800, 5820, 5840, 5860, 5880
Band E: 5705, 5685, 5665, 5645, 5885, 5905, 5925, 5945
Band A: 5865, 5845, 5825, 5805, 5785, 5765, 5745, 5725
Band R: 5658, 5695, 5732, 5769, 5806, 5843, 5880, 5917
Band B: 5733, 5752, 5771, 5790, 5809, 5828, 5847, 5866

The build

As I mentioned earlier I had an old Hubsan x4 clone (7mm motors) collecting dust and when I saw the Quanum Elite I knew I was in for alot of fun. The first this I did was just tape to Quanum Elite to the top of my Hubsan and hooked it up to the main battery. I took it out to my garden and after a couple of batteries I was racing around the house.
After a while I felt that I wanted more power and started researching motor and frame options. The hubsan control board is capable of running the 8.5mm motors (even the 7mm motor version board) and they are so much more powerful. I decided to use these 8.5mm motors from Banggood and this 3d-printed micro quad fpv frame. The Hubsan control board fits perfectly in that frame and the motors are just friction fitted which means they will break lose in a crash instead of bending. It’s lightweight and there’s alot of room for both the lipo and camera on the top deck. The Quanum Elite is powered of my main lipo and I’ve never seen any motor interferance in my picture. I’m currently using 300mah lipos but the frame and motors can easily lift 500mah or 600mah lipos aswell.
The Quanum Elite is just attached with double sided tape and the lipo is held down with a household rubber band.

Printing and assembling everything to the frame is done in under two hours which is good because if you manage to break it then you can quickly have a new one flying again.
I’m planning to modify the frame a little in the future to make it even more sleek. I’ll upload the files here and on Thingiverse.

The best part of using a micro camera/transmitter combo like the Quanum Elite is that it can run of the same lipo that is powered the rest of the quad.

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ZMR250 and QAV250 replacement parts and upgrades

Upgrades and replacement parts for you ZMR250 or QAV250 frame

The ZMR250 is one of the most proven and tested fpv racing frames around. It was one of the first designs of the new generation FPV drones and with several upgrades it’s still very popular. Even though it’s one of my early frames I still find myself bringing it to the airfield every time I go out to fly.

The great this about fpv racing is that you can upgrade or change almost every part of your quad and still fly it. That’s good news since crashes and hard landings are unfortunately inevitable when you are flying FPV. Even if your quad/drone doesn’t break you will probably reach a point where you want to upgrade some parts to increase the performance like speed, agility or handling. I’ve smashed my ZMR250 frame into concrete and asphalt several times resulting in both broken and chipped arms. Luckily there’s replacements to buy.

I’ve gathered a list of parts that you can use to upgrade your ZMR250 or QAV250 frame with.


Name Size KV Thrust Price Info
DYS BE1806 1806 2300KV 390g, 6.5A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×3 propeller 9.68$ More info
Sunnysky X2204 2204 2300KV 423g, 8.1A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×3 propeller 15.59$ More info
EMAX Cooling New MT2204 2204 2300KV 310g, 7.5A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×3 propeller

390g, 8.4A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×4 propeller
15.99$ (sale. normal price 23.99$) More info


ESCs (speed controllers)

Name Max ampere Weight Price Cells
RCX Simonk 12A 12A 22g 7.19$ 2-3
DYS 20A 20A 22g 10.96$ 2-4
DYS BL20A Mini 20A 7.6g 11.39$ 2-4


PDB (power distribution boards)

Name Price
Integrated frame PDB 9.39$
CC3D Flight Controller Mini PDB 9.39$
Matek 5v bec PDB 5.60$



Carbon Fiber arm x2 for ZMR250 and QAV250, 5.00$

Control board

Name Price
NAZE32 REV6a MPU6500 32-bit 12.89$ ~ 17.89$
OpenPilot CC3D 14.99$
OpenPilot Mini CC3D Revolution 32bit 40.99$
EMAX Skyline32 Naze32 30.99$



Name Pitch Price
Tri-blade DALprop T4045BN Bullnose propellers 4045 Tri-blade 2.99$ / 2 pairs
DALprop 5045BN Bullnose Propellers 5045 1.99$ / 2 pairs
V2 DALprop 5040 Multirotor Propellers 5040 1.95$ / 2 pairs
Gemfan 5×3 Inch Plastic 5030 Propeller 5030 1.95$ / 2 pairs

This list can also be used as a build list if you are planning to build either a ZMR250 or QAV250 racing quad. I will keep updating it with more parts aswell as FPV cameras and receivers.

Check out my build and review of a 73$ ZMR250 kit.

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Cheap and simple DIY LC filter for FPV

Simplicity at its finest – LC filter

Lc filter closeup

If you are running your FPV gear on the same lipo that is powering your motors there is a high chance that you have problems with noise lines and interference in your fpv video.
This is very common and you probably recognize it from this image:
noise in fpv video
The reason for this is because of noise that your brushless motors and ESCs output when they are under load as you increase the throttle. As your motors rev up or down to balance your multicopter they are make the current fluctuate. The varying current makes your lipo voltage to go up and down resulting in noise in your FPV video.

Luckily there is a simple fix to this problem! The name of the solution is a LC filter. A LC filter is basically an inductor/coil “L” and a capacitor “C” working together. The inductor smoothens out the current flowing through it and the capacitor smoothens out the voltage. There is not much more to it besides the plugs – it’s almost like magic.

Items needed to build the LC filter:

The ferrite ring is the same as what is used on most ESC rc wires. When choosing a capacitor make sure it’s rated for more voltage than you are planning on using. It’s such a cheap component. Regarding the uF rating there seems to be little to no evidence of how it affects the performance of the filter, I used one rated 1000uF.

This is how I built mine:

Step 1 – Gather all parts and prepare you soldering iron.


I really like working with silicon wires. They are flexible, easy to strip and solder. You can use this tool for stripping them.

Step 2 – Coil the positive wire around the ferrite ring.

Coiled wire

You should wrap it tight together without overlapping them. This is what I’ve been told and how I’m doing it. Some people overlap the wire without any signal problems.

Step 3 – Solder JST plug and the ferrite ring

coil soldered to capacitor

In this step you can decide how long you want the JST wires to be. As long as you keep them within a reasonable length it doesn’t matter much. Be sure to solder the positive wires to the + pin of the capacitor. The negative (-) pin is often marked on the side. The order of coil and capacitor of the LC filter should be: lipo -> coil -> capacitor -> fpv gear.

Step 4 – Solder the negative wires

LC filter soldered

This is the last step unless you want to cover it with tape or shrink tube. You should not leave the capacitor pins exposed as it could be short-circuted by metal or carbon fibre. I covered them with two dabs of melt glue.

Step 5 – Check polarity!

You should ALWAYS check polarity of a component that you’ve soldered before plugging it into your application. Use a multimeter like this one to make sure that there is no short circuit or reversed polarity.

If everything seems alright it’s ready to be plugged in and tested. Enjoy a much clearer video feed!