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Fatshark Attitude V2 Nexwave raceband receiver module change

Changing to a Nexwave raceband receiver in Fatshark Attitude V2

parts

I’m very happy with my Fatshark Attitude V2 goggles. They are small, not as bulky as the single screen goggles such as The Quanum FPV goggles or the Eachine VR 007 goggles. Although when buying the Attitude V2s I quickly realized that the default fatshark channels wasn’t enough for me. I wanted to be able to use both the Boscam band and raceband. I have a seperate Boscam rc305 receiver that I use together with a 7″ monitor for some applications. I didn’t want to constantly change transmitter band/channel depending on if I wanted to use my monitor or Fatsharks so I decided to change the stock receiver module in my Fatshark Attitude V2 to the Fatshark Dominator Reciever 5.8GHz 32 Channels RX Module RaceBand

Nexwave 5.8ghz 32 channels raceband receiver module specs

Voltage: 5V
RSSI output voltage: 0.4V~2.2V
Video Format: NTSC/PAL
Antenna connectors: SMA
Weight: 20g (with omni antenna)
Dimensions: 40mm (L) x 25mm (W) x 10mm (H) – add length of 35mm by counting the antenna angled 90 °

Frequency table

0-0 Band 1 FS/IRC 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880
0-1 Band 2 Boscam E 5705 5685 5665 5645 5885 5905 5925 5945
1-0 Band 3 Boscam A 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725
1-1 Band 4 RaceBand 5658 5695 5732 5769 5706 5843 5880 5917

Installing it into the Fatshark goggles

Step 1 – Open the goggles

DSC_0183
The first step is to open up the goggles case. You need to remove the rubber eye cups, some screws and the image settings adjustment knob on top of the goggles. You must be very careful when seperating the two halves so that no cables are caught and ripped of their sockets or soldering pads.
There is a youtube video explaining this process here:

Step 2 – Remove the old receiver module

Old receiver module
In this step you need to remove the whole PCB containing the receiver module from the Fatshark goggles. There is two cables that you need to unplug and then you can just pull it out.

Step 3 – Solder the new Nexwave module to the receiver board/PCB

Soldering module
I contacted the Fatshark technical support and ordered a new “Attitude V2 receiver replacement board” through them. This way I didn’t have to desolder the old receiver module from the PCB and if I ever need to I can quickly insert the old module. The replacement board costs around 30$ and is well worth it.
Soldering the new Newwave receiver module to the board is an easy task, just make sure thate the module is flush to the pcb before soldering. I fixed mine with some electrical tape and it ended up flush with the board.

Step 4 – Drill a hole for the band change DIP-switches

hole drilled for dip switches
To be able to change which band the receiver should operate on you need to be able to access the small DIP-switches below the antenna plug or it defeates the purpose of this mod. The easiest way is to CAREFULLY drill a hole in the fatshark goggles and change the switches with a needle. Use a caliper to measure where the hole need to be. I used a 6mm drill.

Step 5 – Insert the new receiver module and check hole alignment

receiver module dry fit
Plug in the cables to the receiver board again and gently push the board into place in the goggles. It’s a snug fit but not much pressure is needed, make sure that no cables are in the way.
When the module is is place you can actually test your goggles to make sure that everything is working. Double check that the cables are plugged in the wrong way and that no loose screws are shorting anything before plugging in the battery.

receiver module in place
Tada! now you should be able to match the frequency with your transmitter and get a solid video feed.

Step 6 – Assemble the goggles

fatshark attitude v2 assembled
Carefully put everything back together and you’re done.
I 3d-printed a faceplate and attached it to the goggles for a more comfortable fit, I will soon post a guide on that mod.

Link to the Fatshark Dominator Reciever 5.8GHz 32 Channels RX Module RaceBand

Recommended antenna

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Eachine e010 Tiny Whoop FPV conversion

Adding FPV gear to Eachine e010

e010 with FPV camera equipment

With a price of around 15$ it’s no wonder that the Eachine e010 tiny whoop is the Blade Inductrix killer. Sure you are limited in transmitter options and the control is not as precise as the Blade Inductrix but for a fraction of the price it’s a no-brainer, you’ll have more money to spend on upgrades, spare parts and even whole quads. If you want to know the specs of it you can read my previous Eachine e010 post. I preordered one when they were announced and received it at launch. I took it out of the box (had another lipo precharged) bound it and flew it line-of-sight. That was fun but since my plan for it was to add FPV I cranked up my soldering iron and made some room on my tinkering table.

Parts list

Step 1 – change battery plug

battery plug

To be able to do this modification you need to remove the plastic shell of the e010. It’s dead weight anyways. It pops off easily.
The 180mah lipos I wanted to use have the small JST battery plug. Therefore I had to change the existing one. I bought this 2 In 5 JST Plug Connector where I could source a connector and solder it to the e010 board. As you can see in the picture I stripped the wires so that they would protrude on the other side of the board where I could connect the camera. Be sure to check the polarity more than one time before plugging in a battery!

Step 2 – add camera power plug

camera power plug

Since I power my FPV camera module with the same type of battery plug that I removed previously I soldered it to the top of the board instead. Be careful with the polarity when doing this step or you’ll end up frying you camera. I will probably solder the camera directly to the pins instead of using connectors to save weight. With a small quad like this every gram counts! The downside of soldering it directly is that it’s harder to move to another model.

Step 3 – attach the camera

e010 with FPV equipment

The final step is the attach the camera to the Eachine e010. I used double sided tape to mount it directly to the board. I plan to 3d-print a mount instead like this one from Thingiverse.

Step 4 – fly!

Now it’s time to fly it. Make sure you have the center of gravity in the middle of the frame or it would result in power and flight time loss since some of the motors would have to work extra hard to compensate.

Upgrades

I’ve heard some reports of increased flight time and power when changing to the Chaoli CL 615 6/15mm motors. I’m sure that being able to use 7mm motors would also be a benefit. I’ve also seen someone cutting the quad blade propellers to two blade to gain more flight time but lose some punch. It’s all a matter or taste.

Replacement/spare parts

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Eachine E010 Mini Banggoods own Tiny Whoop

Eachine E010 Mini 2.4G 4CH 6 Axis Tiny Whoop from Banggood

Image from Banggood

It looks like Banggood also jumped the Tiny Whoop bandwagon with their latest micro quad announcement. They announced the Eachine E010 Mini 2.4G 4CH 6 Axis Headless Mode RC Quadcopter RTF which looks like a Blade Inductrix aka Tiny Whoop clone. The hardware is probably the same as the Eachine E10.

Specs

Size: 9.5X9.5X5CM
Gyro: 6-axis
Frequency: 2.4G
Channel:4CH
Battery: 3.7V (150MAH) (included)
Flight time: about 5 minutes

There is no information regarding the controller and the motors but the motors are probably in the 6mm size judging by the lipo size. According to Banggood it’s going to be voice controlled:
“Remote control mode:Voice
Remote control parameters:2*1.5AA 5#(Not included)”
Let’s hope it will also be possible to control it with ordinary sticks.

The question is if it’s able to carry a Quanum Elite or FX797T camera/transmitter combo without any upgrades to motors and lipos. The answer is probably no.

Here are some more images:

Image from Banggood
Image from Banggood

As soon as it’s available there will be an review of it here so stay tuned!

More information and pre order

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Quanum Elite and FX797T range test

Quanum Elite and FX797T outdoor range test

Due to their enormous popularity a lot of people are asking about the range of the Quanum Elite and FX797T micro FPV cameras/transmitters. I did some googling and didn’t find any solid tests so I conducted my own. My test area is a big and open grass field with no power lines or telephone towers nearby. I placed the Quanum Elite and FX797T on a tripod about 1.5m above the ground and then started walking away from with my Fatshark Attitude V2 equipped with a skew planar antenna from Banggood. Only one of the cameras was powered on when testing them to avoid frequency interference.

Quanum Elite range test

Range test of Quanum Elite
I got to around 100 meters away when the static started to take over. At around 110m I could barely see anything.

FX797T range test

FX797T range test
I walked along the same path as I did with the Quanum Elite and at around 150 meters the image was almost gone. I would say that 140 meters was the maximum effective range during the test.

Conclusion

According to my tests the FX797T have almost 50% longer range wich surprised me since I though that the FX797T is just a rebranded Quanum Elite. They both use 25mw transmitters and the same type of cloverleaf antennas. To get a more accurate test result I would probably need to do the same tests but with more cameras since the quality of the hardware could vary alot. I’ve read somewhere that by using a patch antenna on the receiver someone managed to get over 300 meters range with the FX979T.

Quanum Elite range: 100 meters
FX797T range: 140 meters

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Another 3D-printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame

3D printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame for both 7mm and 8.5mm brushed motors

3d printed tiny whoop frame
Image from Thingiverse

I just stumbled across this Tiny Whoop frame on Thingiverse and I’m planning to print one. Hopefully it can accommodate a Hubsan board instead of the Blade Inductrix one. You can find the parts I’m planning to use below. The frame can be printed both for 7mm motors and the mighty 8.5mm motors. The AUW seems to be around 37g with 7mm motors, 205mah lipo and a Quanum Elite camera. The frame files can be found on Thingiverse.

Suggested parts list

Motors: 8.5mm motors
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX797T

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New 40ch 5.8ghz micro FPV camera transmitter combo Eachine EF-01 AIO

Eachine EF-01 AIO

Eachinf EF-01

Banggood just announced a brand new micro FPV camera/transmitter combo module from Eachine called Eachine EF-01 AIO. I’m guessing that due to the tremendous increase in popularity of micro quads (Blad Induxtrix aka Tiny Whoop in particular) we’re going to see alot of micro cameras with built in transmitters being released to the market in the coming months. The new Eachine EF-01 AIO looks very promising since it’s almost 15$ cheaper than the Quanum Elite and Banggoods other micro FPV camera FX797T. The only downside is that it’s a bit on the heavy side with a weight of 6.8 grams but it looks like the metal casing is easily removable. It’s also compatible with the raceband frequencies. It has a button for switching bands, channels and PAL/NTSC mode and LED lights to show which band and channel it’s set to.

Specs

Sensor: 1/3 “CMOS
Lens: M8 800TVL Lens
FOV: 150°
Format: NTSC / PAL
Power consumption: 380mA @ 3.7V
Power: 3.6-5.5V
Lens Mirror Diameter: 2.1mm IR coated FOV150 (horizontal)
Output Impedance: 75 Ohm
Output signal strength: 23 ~ 24dBm
Output Power: 25mW
Number of channels: 40
Antenna: RHCP circular polarization clover leaf antenna
Operating voltage: 3.6V ~ 5.5V
Current: 100mA

Frequecies

Band A 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725
Band B 5733 5752 5771 5790 5809 5828 5847 5866
Band E 5705 5685 5665 5645 5885 5905 5925 5945
Band F 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880
Band R 5658 5695 5732 5769 5806 5843 5880 5917

“Get it while it’s hot!”
Preorder/buy it here

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3D-printed Tiny Whoop frame project

DIY Tiny Whoop frame

3d printed tiny whoop frame

The main reason for why the Blade Inductrix is so popular except for it’s superb stability is probably it’s frame design. The ducts protects the propellers and allows the quad to bounce into tables, walls, cats and other obstacles that you might find flying in your home. I was thinking that with the help of a 3D-printed it must be possible to replicate the design of the Tiny Whoop. My idea is to use 8.5mm motors and a hubsan control board. The FPV setup will of course be the Quanum Elite or the FX797T micro fpv camera from Banggood. You can also convert a full Hubsan X4 H107C and convert into the diy Tiny Whoop.

The frame weight is currently 12g printed in PLA.

The design is not done yet but as soon as I have a working prototype I will upload the design to Thingiverse.

Suggested parts list

Motors: 8.5mm motors
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX979T

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Brushed micro FPV quad build with Quanum Elite FX797T

DIY micro fpv quad with Quanum Elite

3d printed micro fpv quad

The Quanum Elite has recently opened up a whole new world making it easy to get started with micro FPVing.
The latest trend in the FPV world is undoubtedly brushed micro FPVing (especially the Tiny Whoop Inductrix build). What makes the micro FPV quads so popular is their small size, low weight, cheap parts and the ability to fly FPV indoors around your house and garden. If you like me have some micro quads lying around collecting dust (Like the Hubsan X4 h107 or the Eachine H8) you can easily convert them into micro FPV quads. The most popular micro fpv transmitter/camera combo is called Quanum Elite and is sold by Hobbyking. Banggood also carries their version called FX797T which is basically just a rebranded Quanum Elite. It is possible to build your own micro transmitter/camera fpv pack but it’s hard to get a clear fpv signal because of motor noise. To filter the motor noise in a diy setup you MUST use a Polulu regulator (increasing the complexity, cost and shipping time). A ready to go micro fpv transmitter/camera combo is not much more expensive and much easier to use.

Parts

Motors: 8.5mm motors
Frame: 3d printed micro quad frame from Thingiverse
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX797T

You can also just buy the complete Hubsan X4 H107C where the rc transmitter is also included.

Quanum Elite camera

Quanum Elite specs

Trasmitter power: 25mw
Input voltage: 2.5-5V, perfect for 1s power
Camera resolution: 600TVL
Output resolution: VGA 640×480
Field of view (fov): 120 degrees
Antenna: 3 lobe right hand circular polarized
Frequency: 5.8Ghz 5 bands 40 channels
Frequency band: 6558-5917
Size: 21x19x17mm (with case, excluding antenna)
Weight with case: 4.5g
Weight without case: 3.5g

Frequencies:
Band F: 5740, 5760, 5780, 5800, 5820, 5840, 5860, 5880
Band E: 5705, 5685, 5665, 5645, 5885, 5905, 5925, 5945
Band A: 5865, 5845, 5825, 5805, 5785, 5765, 5745, 5725
Band R: 5658, 5695, 5732, 5769, 5806, 5843, 5880, 5917
Band B: 5733, 5752, 5771, 5790, 5809, 5828, 5847, 5866

The build

As I mentioned earlier I had an old Hubsan x4 clone (7mm motors) collecting dust and when I saw the Quanum Elite I knew I was in for alot of fun. The first this I did was just tape to Quanum Elite to the top of my Hubsan and hooked it up to the main battery. I took it out to my garden and after a couple of batteries I was racing around the house.
After a while I felt that I wanted more power and started researching motor and frame options. The hubsan control board is capable of running the 8.5mm motors (even the 7mm motor version board) and they are so much more powerful. I decided to use these 8.5mm motors from Banggood and this 3d-printed micro quad fpv frame. The Hubsan control board fits perfectly in that frame and the motors are just friction fitted which means they will break lose in a crash instead of bending. It’s lightweight and there’s alot of room for both the lipo and camera on the top deck. The Quanum Elite is powered of my main lipo and I’ve never seen any motor interferance in my picture. I’m currently using 300mah lipos but the frame and motors can easily lift 500mah or 600mah lipos aswell.
The Quanum Elite is just attached with double sided tape and the lipo is held down with a household rubber band.

Printing and assembling everything to the frame is done in under two hours which is good because if you manage to break it then you can quickly have a new one flying again.
I’m planning to modify the frame a little in the future to make it even more sleek. I’ll upload the files here and on Thingiverse.

The best part of using a micro camera/transmitter combo like the Quanum Elite is that it can run of the same lipo that is powered the rest of the quad.

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ZMR250 and QAV250 replacement parts and upgrades

Upgrades and replacement parts for you ZMR250 or QAV250 frame

The ZMR250 is one of the most proven and tested fpv racing frames around. It was one of the first designs of the new generation FPV drones and with several upgrades it’s still very popular. Even though it’s one of my early frames I still find myself bringing it to the airfield every time I go out to fly.

The great this about fpv racing is that you can upgrade or change almost every part of your quad and still fly it. That’s good news since crashes and hard landings are unfortunately inevitable when you are flying FPV. Even if your quad/drone doesn’t break you will probably reach a point where you want to upgrade some parts to increase the performance like speed, agility or handling. I’ve smashed my ZMR250 frame into concrete and asphalt several times resulting in both broken and chipped arms. Luckily there’s replacements to buy.

I’ve gathered a list of parts that you can use to upgrade your ZMR250 or QAV250 frame with.

Motors

Name Size KV Thrust Price Info
DYS BE1806 1806 2300KV 390g, 6.5A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×3 propeller 9.68$ More info
Sunnysky X2204 2204 2300KV 423g, 8.1A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×3 propeller 15.59$ More info
EMAX Cooling New MT2204 2204 2300KV 310g, 7.5A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×3 propeller

390g, 8.4A, 11.1v (3 cells), 5×4 propeller
15.99$ (sale. normal price 23.99$) More info

 

ESCs (speed controllers)

Name Max ampere Weight Price Cells
RCX Simonk 12A 12A 22g 7.19$ 2-3
DYS 20A 20A 22g 10.96$ 2-4
DYS BL20A Mini 20A 7.6g 11.39$ 2-4

 

PDB (power distribution boards)

Name Price
Integrated frame PDB 9.39$
CC3D Flight Controller Mini PDB 9.39$
Matek 5v bec PDB 5.60$

 

Arms

Carbon Fiber arm x2 for ZMR250 and QAV250, 5.00$
 

Control board

Name Price
NAZE32 REV6a MPU6500 32-bit 12.89$ ~ 17.89$
OpenPilot CC3D 14.99$
OpenPilot Mini CC3D Revolution 32bit 40.99$
EMAX Skyline32 Naze32 30.99$

 

Propellers

Name Pitch Price
Tri-blade DALprop T4045BN Bullnose propellers 4045 Tri-blade 2.99$ / 2 pairs
DALprop 5045BN Bullnose Propellers 5045 1.99$ / 2 pairs
V2 DALprop 5040 Multirotor Propellers 5040 1.95$ / 2 pairs
Gemfan 5×3 Inch Plastic 5030 Propeller 5030 1.95$ / 2 pairs

This list can also be used as a build list if you are planning to build either a ZMR250 or QAV250 racing quad. I will keep updating it with more parts aswell as FPV cameras and receivers.

Check out my build and review of a 73$ ZMR250 kit.

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Cheap and simple DIY LC filter for FPV

Simplicity at its finest – LC filter

Lc filter closeup

If you are running your FPV gear on the same lipo that is powering your motors there is a high chance that you have problems with noise lines and interference in your fpv video.
This is very common and you probably recognize it from this image:
noise in fpv video
The reason for this is because of noise that your brushless motors and ESCs output when they are under load as you increase the throttle. As your motors rev up or down to balance your multicopter they are make the current fluctuate. The varying current makes your lipo voltage to go up and down resulting in noise in your FPV video.

Luckily there is a simple fix to this problem! The name of the solution is a LC filter. A LC filter is basically an inductor/coil “L” and a capacitor “C” working together. The inductor smoothens out the current flowing through it and the capacitor smoothens out the voltage. There is not much more to it besides the plugs – it’s almost like magic.

Items needed to build the LC filter:

The ferrite ring is the same as what is used on most ESC rc wires. When choosing a capacitor make sure it’s rated for more voltage than you are planning on using. It’s such a cheap component. Regarding the uF rating there seems to be little to no evidence of how it affects the performance of the filter, I used one rated 1000uF.

This is how I built mine:

Step 1 – Gather all parts and prepare you soldering iron.

components

I really like working with silicon wires. They are flexible, easy to strip and solder. You can use this tool for stripping them.

Step 2 – Coil the positive wire around the ferrite ring.

Coiled wire

You should wrap it tight together without overlapping them. This is what I’ve been told and how I’m doing it. Some people overlap the wire without any signal problems.

Step 3 – Solder JST plug and the ferrite ring

coil soldered to capacitor

In this step you can decide how long you want the JST wires to be. As long as you keep them within a reasonable length it doesn’t matter much. Be sure to solder the positive wires to the + pin of the capacitor. The negative (-) pin is often marked on the side. The order of coil and capacitor of the LC filter should be: lipo -> coil -> capacitor -> fpv gear.

Step 4 – Solder the negative wires

LC filter soldered

This is the last step unless you want to cover it with tape or shrink tube. You should not leave the capacitor pins exposed as it could be short-circuted by metal or carbon fibre. I covered them with two dabs of melt glue.

Step 5 – Check polarity!

You should ALWAYS check polarity of a component that you’ve soldered before plugging it into your application. Use a multimeter like this one to make sure that there is no short circuit or reversed polarity.

If everything seems alright it’s ready to be plugged in and tested. Enjoy a much clearer video feed!