Realacc x210 build and review
Besides the Eachine Wizard the Realacc x210 is probably the most built, flown and discussed fpv quads of 2016 and 2017. It’s an X-type frame with almost symmetrical arms which makes the tuning process easier. The manufacturers of the Realacc can’t take any credits for the design since it’s a direct clone of the QAV-X Charpu frame. Cloning might be frown upon but it’s the currently the state of this industry and everyone is doing it. If you disregard the fact that it’s a clone it’s a really great quad which both beginners and advanced pilots can enjoy.
After reading a lot of positive posts about the it I ordered the ARF kit and started building it. When I ordered it there were two separate kits to choose from, the 2300kv 20A kit and the 2600kv 30a kit. They are pretty much identical besides the motors and ESCs. In theory the 2600kv version should be a little faster but also more power hungry which means higher C rating lipos and shorter flight time. The 2300kv seemed like a very balanced option so I went for that one. Now there are even more versions of this popular quad which you can browser here
In this post I will try to make a brief review and describe the build process.
Whats included in the package
4mm Realacc X210 carbon fibre frame
F3 Flight Control Acro 6DOF
Racerstar Racing Edition BR2205 2300KV 2-4S Brushless Motor
Racerstar RS20A V2 20A Blheli_S BB2 48MHZ OPTO 2-4S ESC
7 Pairs Kingkong 5X4X3 5040 5 Inch 3-Blade Rainbow Colorful Propeller
Matek PDB-XT60 5V & 12V
Motor to motor distance: 214mm
Weight (inc. hardware): 93g
BR2205 2300KV Brushless Motor
Max thrust: 950g (4s), 660 (3s)
Max amps: 27.6A (4s), 19.2 (3s)
Shaft diameter: M5
Racerstar RS20A V2 20A Blheli_S
Burst current: 25A
Current: 25A * 4
Burst current: 30A * 4
For RC receiver, FC and OSD.
Voltage: 5.0 +/- 0.1VDC
Linear regulator for VTX and FPV camera
Voltage: 12.0 +/- 0.3VDC
To get this quad up and running you need to add some components such as RC receiver and lipo. Below is a list with the components I use or recommend:
RC transmitter and receiver: Flysky FS-i6X with X6B i-BUS-receiver
FPV camera: Sony Super Had II or 600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS FPV 170 Degree (requires custom mount)
FPV transmitter (vtx): Eachine TS5823L 5.8G 200mw 40CH
Vtx antenna: Skyzone 5.8GHz RHCP 4 Leaf FPV Antenna (RP-SMA male!)
FPV goggles: Fatshark Dominator V3 or Eachine VR D2 goggles
Lipo: Giant Power Dinogy 1300mAh 14.8V 4S 65C
Charger: iMAX B6 digital charger
OSD: Micro MinimOSD
Building the Realacc x210 kit
I started by mounting all the motors to the frame and cut their wires to appropriate length. The next step was to solder the wires to the ESCs. The easiest way to do this is to pre-tin the wires and the ESCs soldering pads. Then you just press the wire against the pad, apply heat and a little bit of solder and it will form a strong bond. Remember to cover your ESCs pads with some shrink tube before soldering the ESC to the PDB. If you miss this step you can just cover it with some electrical tape afterwards.
The rest of the build is pretty easy. I added a Micro MinimOSD which I can unplug when connecting the board to a computer. When I ordered this kit the camera that I wanted to use was out of stock, so I built it with the 600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS micro camera. Recently I upgraded to the Sony Super Had II which is a really good camera . I also went with the X6B i-BUS Receiver that was included in the Flysky FS-i6X package.
This hobby has come a long way since David Windestahl introduced us to his KK-board controlled tricopter. This quad is a living proof of that.
All in all this is a very good racing / freestyle quad. It has lots of power and the frame is very well designed. It’s important to note that this is not a complete kit with everything you need to get started. As I mentioned earlier you need extra components such as battery, charger and rc gear etc. The quad is easy to build and can be customized to fit your style. You also get a battery strap to secure the battery on the bottom side of the frame.
– If you break an arm you’ll have to replace the whole body.
– This version of the frame does not have an adjustable HD camera mount.
– It can be tricky to mount the fpv camera due to space issues.