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EMAX Babyhawk 85mm micro brushless quad

EMAX Babyhawk 85mm indoor micro brushless quad

Emax Babyhawk front
Image from RCGroups.com

Banggood recently revealed a new and very exiting micro brushless FPV quad. It’s the Emax Babyhawk and the specs so far looks very promising. It’s pretty safe to say that this is going to be a really popular indoor and backyard flyer due to it’s small size. The prop guards can be removed but if you are going to fly indoors you probably want to leave them on.
With a pricetag around 100$ and a flight time between 3 and 4 minutes this will most probably be the definite Tiny Whoop killer.
Around 3 minutes flight time. Probably a bit longer indoors or on a windless day.

Specs

Size: 85mm motor to motor. 132mmx132mm total with prop guards
Weight: 86g total with 2s 300mah lipo and prop guards. 60g bare weight.
Camera/VTX: 520TVL AIO camera with 25mw VTX
Flight controller: EMAX Femto F3 / 80A PDB with 5v 3A LC filtered BEC
ESCs: Bullet 6A BLHeli_S Plug-In ESCs
Motors: 1104 5000kv Brushless Motor
Propellers: 2345 tri blade
Battery: 300mah 2s lipo
Body type: durable plastic

It seems like this quad will be available in two different options, RTF and PNP.
The RTF, Ready-To-Fly version will include everything you need to fly including radio transmitter, receiver and VTX receiver/goggles.
If you buy the PNP version you’ll only get the quad and the built in electronics. That means that you need to have your own rc transmitter and receiver aswell as FPV goggles. Batteris and charger will probably not be included in the PNP version either. I will use my Flysky FS-i6x radio transmitter together with the Flysky FS-A8S mini receiver.

Parts

EMAX Femto F3 Flight Controller and PDB Board

Emax flight controller
Image from Banggood.com

The EMAX Femto F3 flightcontroller in the Emax Babyhawk is also a built in PDB which means that it will both control the quad aswell as supply the ESCs and other electronics with power. The Femto FC is running Betaflight 3.0.1 firmware and is fully configurable via the USB port.
The PDB is rated up to 80A (20A per ESC) and has a built in BEC supplying filtered 5v 3A.

Voltage range: 2S-6S (7.4v – 25.2v)
CPU: STM32F303
Gyro: MPU9250
Buzzer support
BLHeli Passthrough
2.0mm Pin Headers for ESCs

EMAX Bullet 6A BLHeli_S ESCs

Babyhawk ESCs
Image from Banggood.com

The ESCs are flashed with BLHeli_S 16.4 and can be programmed or upgraded through the usb in the flight controller. They are embedded in the arms of the quadcopter and are connected to the flight controller through 2.0mm pin headers. Emax has rated them max 2S but they stated that 3S might work but it’s not tested and therefore not recommended.
Size: 9.4mm x 21.5mm
Weight: 2.1g
Supported Protocols: Oneshot42 and 125, Multishot and Dshot150, 300 and 600

EMAX RS1104 5250kv Brushless Motors

Emax baby hawk motors
Image from Banggood.com

The Babyhawk motors are really powerful, at 2S they can produce up to 120g of thrust. That means that the Emax Babyhawk have an impressive thrust to weight ratio of 6 to 1 on 2S. One can only image how it could perform on 3S and even 4S. The motors are rated up to 4S but the ESCs might be the bottleneck here, future testing will tell. No amp/current draw has been specified yet but it’s probably going to be around 3 or 4 amps per motor. The propellers seems to be bolted on to the motors which removes the risk of the propeller coming loose as they might do on friction-fitted configurations. One problem with bolting the propellers to the motors is that when (not if) you crash you might damage the motors instead of just the propellers.

520TVL AIO camera/VTX

The Babyhawk carries a pretty standard AIO camera/VTX. The VTX is seems to be switchable between 25mw and 200mw with a led display on the back to show what channel/band it’s running. The circular polarized antenna is probably easily damaged and a dipole might have been a better choice.
It seems like the AIO camera have pins for both video in AND video out which means an OSD can be added.

Replacement parts

Currently the replacement parts can only be found as a bundle which includes:
1 X EMAX Femto F3 Flight Controller+PDB Board
4 X EMAX Bullet 6A BLHeli_S ESC (1S-2S Support)
4 X EMAX RS1104 5250kv Brushless Motors
2 X EMAX T2345BN Complete Propeller Sets
40 X Screws

Buy the replacement parts here
When the Babyhawk is released the parts can hopefully be bought separately.

Cons

Camera mount looks fragile
Camera lens is exposed
No OSD
No Buzzer

Summary

My guess is that Emax will have to crank up the manufacturing rate of these quads because they are most lileky going to be super popular. If an OSD and buzzer can be added then this is THE brushless micro FPV quad the community have waited for. It offers both in- and outdoor capabilities at really good pricetag. Racing this quad with a couple of friends is going to be a blast.

As soon as the Babyhawks are released into the wild I will do a real review of it.

Order and more information

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73$ ZMR250 kit motor and esc upgrade to DYS SE2205 and DYS BLheli XM20A

Upgrade of ZMR250 kit with DYS SE2205 motors and DYS XM20A escs

motors connected

After flying my cheap ZMR250 73$ kit for a while (review here) I began looking around for upgrades that could enhance it’s already good flight performance. I had previously changed the control board from cc32 to a Naze32 with betaflight which was a well worth upgrade. This time I was looking for more power and a more convinient build so I decided that the motors needed be changed. To make the upgrade easy I also bought a Diatone V7.3 PDB with LC filter and new ESCs. Since the original ESCs were only 10A rated and with old firmware (simonK) it made sense to change them. This way I could also extract the original powerplant (PDB, motors and ESCS) and drop in the new without the need to desolder, clean and resolder anything.
After reading alot of reviews and carefully looking at thrust/amps graphs I decided to use the DYS SE2205 2300KV motors together with the DYS XM20A BLHeli 20A ESCs.

With this upgrade I also wanted to prove that the ZMR250, despise it’s “age”, is still a great frame!

new parts

The parts I used for this project

esc wiring

Summary

Soldering all the parts together was a breeze and powering the system is easy thanks to the new PDB. It filters both the 5v and 12v output which means you can power all your parts including FPV gear from it.
I’m very pleased with this upgrade. Beside a massive power and speed upgrade the quad turned out much more stable and more responsive. I think that this is thanks to the more powerful motors but even more so thanks to the upgraded ESCs and Naze flight controller. The firmware running on those are awesome and easy to configure.

If you have an “old” zmr250 I really recommend you to do this upgrade. This difference is night and day.

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Realacc x210 build and review

Realacc x210 build and review

Besides the Eachine Wizard the Realacc x210 is probably the most built, flown and discussed fpv quads of 2016 and 2017. It’s an X-type frame with almost symmetrical arms which makes the tuning process easier. The manufacturers of the Realacc can’t take any credits for the design since it’s a direct clone of the QAV-X Charpu frame. Cloning might be frown upon but it’s the currently the state of this industry and everyone is doing it. If you disregard the fact that it’s a clone it’s a really great quad which both beginners and advanced pilots can enjoy.

Image of assembled x210

After reading a lot of positive posts about the it I ordered the ARF kit and started building it. When I ordered it there were two separate kits to choose from, the 2300kv 20A kit and the 2600kv 30a kit. They are pretty much identical besides the motors and ESCs. In theory the 2600kv version should be a little faster but also more power hungry which means higher C rating lipos and shorter flight time. The 2300kv seemed like a very balanced option so I went for that one. Now there are even more versions of this popular quad which you can browser here

In this post I will try to make a brief review and describe the build process.

Whats included in the package

4mm Realacc X210 carbon fibre frame
F3 Flight Control Acro 6DOF
Racerstar Racing Edition BR2205 2300KV 2-4S Brushless Motor
Racerstar RS20A V2 20A Blheli_S BB2 48MHZ OPTO 2-4S ESC
7 Pairs Kingkong 5X4X3 5040 5 Inch 3-Blade Rainbow Colorful Propeller
Matek PDB-XT60 5V & 12V

Frame specs

Motor to motor distance: 214mm
Thickness: 4mm
Weight (inc. hardware): 93g

Motor specs

BR2205 2300KV Brushless Motor
KV: 2300
Max thrust: 950g (4s), 660 (3s)
Max amps: 27.6A (4s), 19.2 (3s)
Shaft diameter: M5
Weight: 28g

Esc specs

Racerstar RS20A V2 20A Blheli_S
Current: 20A
Burst current: 25A
Cells: 2-4S
BEC: No
Firmware: Blheli_S
Weight: 5.67g
Size:2 7*12mm

PDB specs

Current: 25A * 4
Burst current: 30A * 4

5v BEC

For RC receiver, FC and OSD.
Voltage: 5.0 +/- 0.1VDC

12V BEC

Linear regulator for VTX and FPV camera
Voltage: 12.0 +/- 0.3VDC

Additional components

To get this quad up and running you need to add some components such as RC receiver and lipo. Below is a list with the components I use or recommend:
RC transmitter and receiver: Flysky FS-i6X with X6B i-BUS-receiver
FPV camera: Sony Super Had II or 600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS FPV 170 Degree (requires custom mount)
FPV transmitter (vtx): Eachine TS5823L 5.8G 200mw 40CH
Vtx antenna: Skyzone 5.8GHz RHCP 4 Leaf FPV Antenna (RP-SMA male!)
FPV goggles: Fatshark Dominator V3 or Eachine VR D2 goggles
Lipo: Giant Power Dinogy 1300mAh 14.8V 4S 65C
Charger: iMAX B6 digital charger
OSD: Micro MinimOSD

Building the Realacc x210 kit

DSC_0029
Knolling the frame parts.

ESC closeup
I started by mounting all the motors to the frame and cut their wires to appropriate length. The next step was to solder the wires to the ESCs. The easiest way to do this is to pre-tin the wires and the ESCs soldering pads. Then you just press the wire against the pad, apply heat and a little bit of solder and it will form a strong bond. Remember to cover your ESCs pads with some shrink tube before soldering the ESC to the PDB. If you miss this step you can just cover it with some electrical tape afterwards.

Motors soldered
Just like I soldered the motor wires to the ESCs I soldered the ESCs to the PDB.

DSC_0073
The rest of the build is pretty easy. I added a Micro MinimOSD which I can unplug when connecting the board to a computer. When I ordered this kit the camera that I wanted to use was out of stock, so I built it with the 600TVL 1/4 1.8mm CMOS micro camera. Recently I upgraded to the Sony Super Had II which is a really good camera . I also went with the X6B i-BUS Receiver that was included in the Flysky FS-i6X package.

Summary

This hobby has come a long way since David Windestahl introduced us to his KK-board controlled tricopter. This quad is a living proof of that.
All in all this is a very good racing / freestyle quad. It has lots of power and the frame is very well designed. It’s important to note that this is not a complete kit with everything you need to get started. As I mentioned earlier you need extra components such as battery, charger and rc gear etc. The quad is easy to build and can be customized to fit your style. You also get a battery strap to secure the battery on the bottom side of the frame.

Cons

– If you break an arm you’ll have to replace the whole body.
– This version of the frame does not have an adjustable HD camera mount.
– It can be tricky to mount the fpv camera due to space issues.

Buy it here

2300kv 20A version
2600kv 30A version

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Eachine Aurora 90 BNF review

Review of Eachine Aurora 90 90mm Mini FPV Racer BNF

Since the tinywhoop was brought out to the public it has started a new micro FPV quadcopter revolution. The problem with many of those quadcopters is their weak brushed motors. This has lead to many custom builds with micro brushless motors to gain power, speed and increased motor life. Eachine has brought alot of brushed micro fpv quads to the market such as the QX95, QX90, QX70 and e010 FPV but now they are entering the micro brushless fpv market with the brand new Eachine Aurora 90. It comes packed with features and high grade components such as a mini F3 betaflight compatible Minicube Betaflight F3 6DOF with built-in OSD.

Link to Aurora 90

The Aurora is the perfect entry level quad to the micro brushless scene. It’s BNF (bind-and-fly) and compatible with the three big radio techonologies Spectrum DSM2/DSMX, Flysky and FrSky. If you don’t have a radio and are wondering which one to get I would suggest either the cheap but excellent Flysky FS-i6X 2.4GHz 10CH or the brand new FrSky ACCST Taranis Q X7 2.4GHz 16CH. You have to decide which receiver to use before you order the quad since they are shipped together with the receiver. The receiver can of course be changed later but save yourself the hassle and order the correct one from the start.

What’s included in the BNF kit

– Aurora 90 Mini FPV Racing Drone BNF
Eachine 1104 7500KV brushless motor x 4
– 10A BLHELI_S 16.5 1-2S 4 in 1 ESC Dshot600
50mm 4-blades propeller
– Receiver: Frsky/DSMX/Flysky AFHDS2A (optional)
– Camera/VTX: 600TVL HD CMOS 1/4 inch, 5.8g 25mW 48ch VTX
– Minicube Betaflight F3 6DOF built-in OSD
– Betaflight OSD
– Buzzer
– 7.4V 450mah 80C lipo battery
B3PRO 2S balance charger

The only thing you need is a radio transmitter and a video receiver/goggles. I mentioned my recommendations for radio transmitters above in this post, either Flysky FS-i6X 2.4GHz 10CH or the FrSky ACCST Taranis Q X7 2.4GHz 16CH.
For video goggles recommend getting either a used pair of fatsharks or the Eachine VR-007 goggles. The Fathshark goggles are very popular but expensive so I don’t recommend buying a new pair if this is your first quad.

Since it’s a BNF package you also get a 450 2s 80c lipo and a charger but you should buy a better charger which let’s you monitor the charge and also perform storage charging of your batteries. The iMAX B6 digital charger is super popular and well used within this community. For spare lipos (which you will need sooner or later) you could go with the Gaoneng 450 2s 7.4V 80C which will provide the needed power.

Specs

– Motor-to-motor size: 90mm
– Size: 118mm*118mm*70mm
– Weight: 73g without battery
– Flight time : 3-4minutes

Motor specs

– 7500kv
– 1104 size
– Max thrust: 115g
– Max amps: 8A

ESC specs

Minicube 10A BLHELI_S 4 in 1 ESC Dshot600
– Hole spacing: 20mm*20mm
– Size: 27mm*27mm*5mm
– Firmware: BLHELI_S 16.5
– 10A continuous
– 15A burst
– 5v BEC

FC specs

Minicube F3 6DOF flight controller
– Hole spacing: 20mm*20mm
– Size: 27mm*27mm*5mm
– STM32 F303 MCU Processor (F3)
– SPI Sensor MPU6000
– Built in Betaflight OSD
– Buzzer and vBat support

Spare parts

Frame
Camera
Motor
Propellers
Charger
Spare lipo

Summary

With it’s protected propellers this is the brushless micro quad we’ve all been waiting for. With its brushless motors it’s super powerful and can be flown both indoor and outdoors. Thanks to it’s protected propeller you don’t need to worry about crashing it into walls, shattering props or nasty marks on furniture. If you crash it outside in high grass you can easily locate it with the integrated buzzer (bind it to a AUX channel on your transmitter). The flight time might vary between 3-4 minutes but if you fly it with full throttle you can expect a flight time of under 2 minutes. Since it’s fully customizable through Betaflight GUI it’s possible to tune it to perfection and probably a great contender for a micro indoor fpv race or tight freestyle/acrobatics.

This might be the ultimate indoors brushless micro FPV quad. Get it here before it runs out of stock!

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Eachine Wizard 220 review

Review of Eachine Wizard 220 drone of the year

Eachine is really stepping up their game in the drone industry and you can tell that they carefully observe and listen to what the community and customers want. Besides all their previous race quads they have released the micro fpv camera/transmitter combos, the mighty tiny whoop killer E010 and now the Wizard.

image of Eachine Wizard

The Eachine Wizard is one of the most widely discussed and praised fpv race quad currently and UAVFutures claims that its the best race drone of the year. It may not be the fastest or the lightest drone out there but the package and overall performace for it’s price makes it the winner. You can run it on both 3s and 4s where 3s is recommended for beginner and 4s turns it ballistic! It’s a true X-frame which means that the motors are symmetrical and it’s easier to tune.
You can buy it both ARF and RTF which is with and without radio and receiver included. Beware though: if you buy the ARF with the radio the flight controller and motors are different depending on if you buy it Mode 1 or Mode 2. I would recommend buying the mode 2 or ARF kit because then you get the 2205 motors and F3 flight controller. If you buy the mode 1 kit you get 2204 motors and Naze32 flight controller.

Links the the different kits:
ARF mode 1 and mode 2
RTF (no radio/receiver)

What’s included in the ARF package

– Eachine Wizard X220
– 2 x 2205 KV2300 brushless motor CW
– 2 x 2205 KV2300 brushless motor CCW
– 4 x Eachine 20A BLHELI_S ESC
– 10 x Kingking 5040 3-blade propeller purple CW
– 10 x Kingking 5040 3-blade propeller purple CCW
– F3 6DOF flight controller
– 700TVL fpv camera
– 5.8G 48CH 200mw fpv transmitter
– Rubber ducky antenna
– Battery strap
– Wrench

What’s included in the RTF package

– Eachine Wizard X220
– Flysky I6 2.4G 6CH remore control
– Flysky iA6B receiver
– 2 x MN2204 KV2300 motor CW (mode 1) or 2205 2300KV motor CW (mode 2)
– 2 x MN2204 KV2300 motor CCW (mode 1) or 2205 2300KV motor CCW (mode 2)
– 4 x Eachine 20A BLHELI_S ESC
– 10 x Kingking 5040 3-blade propeller purple CW
– 10 x Kingking 5040 3-blade propeller purple CCW
– NAZE32 6DOF REV6 (mode 1) or F3 6DOF flight controller (mode 2)
– 700TVL fpv camera
– 5.8G 48CH 200mw fpv transmitter
– 3S 11.1V 1500mah 25C XT60 battery
– B3 charger
– Antenna
– Battery strap
– Wrench

If you are new to this hobby the RTF mode 2 kit is the one I really recommend you to buy. You get all the things you need to get airbourne and start ripping the fields. The only thing you need to add is the FPV goggles. I would recommend getting either a used pair of fatsharks or the Eachine VR-007 goggles. The Fathshark goggles are very popular but expensive so I don’t recommend buying a new pair if this is your first quad.

Frame specs

Motor to motor length: 220mm
Arm carbon thickness: 4mm
Center plate carbon thickness: 1mm
Max propeller size: 5″

Motor specs

Eachine MN2205 2300KV Motor
KV: 2300
MAX thrust: 780g
NO.OF cell: 2-4S
Magnets: 12N14P
Shaft: 3mm
Weight: 25g

ESC specs

Eachine 20A BLHELI_S ESC
Current: 20A
Burst current: 25A
Cells: 2-4S
BEC: No
Firmware : Blheli_S
Weight: 7.9g

All the packages includes a 700TVL FPV CMOS camera with 127° diagonal and 110° horizontal FOV which is a bit small but you can easily replace the camera. . The flight controller can be flashed with both cleanflight and betaflight.
If you order the RTF kit you get the super popular FlySky FS-i6 2.4G 6CH transmitter which will last you a long time.
The flight is around 3-7 minutes depending on how hard you fly it.

Cons

– No OSD! I recommend adding the Micro MinimOSD
– No HD camera mount. Depending on which HD camera you use you can either 3d print a mount or order one.
– Often on backorder due to high popularity and demand
– FPV camera has a low FOV

Summary

All in all the Eachine Wizard is a perfect FPV package suiting both beginners and experts. The RTF pack has everything you need to get started except FPV goggles and is already pre-configured so all you need to do is to charge the battery and fly! I would recommend to plug it in to a computer and lower the rates via Cleanflight to tame the beast before you are confortable flying it. If you already have a race quad and are looking for an upgrade or backup quad then you shouldn’t hestitate getting the ARF kit.

Christmas is coming and I’m sure you’ve been good all year so order one now!
ARF mode 1 and mode 2
RTF (no radio/receiver)

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Fatshark Attitude V2 Nexwave raceband receiver module upgrade

Upgrading to a Nexwave raceband receiver in Fatshark Attitude V2

parts

I’m very happy with my Fatshark Attitude V2 goggles. They are small, not as bulky as the single screen goggles such as The Quanum FPV goggles or the Eachine VR 007 goggles. Although when buying the Attitude V2s I quickly realized that the default fatshark channels wasn’t enough for me. I wanted to be able to use both the Boscam band and raceband. I have a seperate Boscam rc305 receiver that I use together with a 7″ monitor for some applications. I didn’t want to constantly change transmitter band/channel depending on if I wanted to use my monitor or Fatsharks so I decided to change the stock receiver module in my Fatshark Attitude V2 to the Fatshark Dominator Reciever 5.8GHz 32 Channels RX Module RaceBand

Nexwave 5.8ghz 32 channels raceband receiver module specs

Voltage: 5V
RSSI output voltage: 0.4V~2.2V
Video Format: NTSC/PAL
Antenna connectors: SMA
Weight: 20g (with omni antenna)
Dimensions: 40mm (L) x 25mm (W) x 10mm (H) – add length of 35mm by counting the antenna angled 90 °

Frequency table

0-0 Band 1 FS/IRC 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880
0-1 Band 2 Boscam E 5705 5685 5665 5645 5885 5905 5925 5945
1-0 Band 3 Boscam A 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725
1-1 Band 4 RaceBand 5658 5695 5732 5769 5706 5843 5880 5917

Installing it into the Fatshark goggles

Step 1 – Open the goggles

DSC_0183
The first step is to open up the goggles case. You need to remove the rubber eye cups, some screws and the image settings adjustment knob on top of the goggles. You must be very careful when seperating the two halves so that no cables are caught and ripped of their sockets or soldering pads.
There is a youtube video explaining this process here:

Step 2 – Remove the old receiver module

Old receiver module
In this step you need to remove the whole PCB containing the receiver module from the Fatshark goggles. There is two cables that you need to unplug and then you can just pull it out.

Step 3 – Solder the new Nexwave module to the receiver board/PCB

Soldering module
I contacted the Fatshark technical support and ordered a new “Attitude V2 receiver replacement board” through them. This way I didn’t have to desolder the old receiver module from the PCB and if I ever need to I can quickly insert the old module. The replacement board costs around 30$ and is well worth it.
Soldering the new Newwave receiver module to the board is an easy task, just make sure thate the module is flush to the pcb before soldering. I fixed mine with some electrical tape and it ended up flush with the board.

Step 4 – Drill a hole for the band change DIP-switches

hole drilled for dip switches
To be able to change which band the receiver should operate on you need to be able to access the small DIP-switches below the antenna plug or it defeates the purpose of this mod. The easiest way is to CAREFULLY drill a hole in the fatshark goggles and change the switches with a needle. Use a caliper to measure where the hole need to be. I used a 6mm drill.

Step 5 – Insert the new receiver module and check hole alignment

receiver module dry fit
Plug in the cables to the receiver board again and gently push the board into place in the goggles. It’s a snug fit but not much pressure is needed, make sure that no cables are in the way.
When the module is is place you can actually test your goggles to make sure that everything is working. Double check that the cables are plugged in the wrong way and that no loose screws are shorting anything before plugging in the battery.

receiver module in place
Tada! now you should be able to match the frequency with your transmitter and get a solid video feed.

Step 6 – Assemble the goggles

fatshark attitude v2 assembled
Carefully put everything back together and you’re done.
I 3d-printed a faceplate and attached it to the goggles for a more comfortable fit, I will soon post a guide on that mod.

Link to the Fatshark Dominator Reciever 5.8GHz 32 Channels RX Module RaceBand

Recommended antenna

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Eachine e010 Tiny Whoop FPV conversion

Adding FPV gear to Eachine e010

e010 with FPV camera equipment

With a price of around 15$ it’s no wonder that the Eachine e010 tiny whoop is the Blade Inductrix killer. Sure you are limited in transmitter options and the control is not as precise as the Blade Inductrix but for a fraction of the price it’s a no-brainer, you’ll have more money to spend on upgrades, spare parts and even whole quads. If you want to know the specs of it you can read my previous Eachine e010 post. I preordered one when they were announced and received it at launch. I took it out of the box (had another lipo precharged) bound it and flew it line-of-sight. That was fun but since my plan for it was to add FPV I cranked up my soldering iron and made some room on my tinkering table.

Parts list

Instructions for FPV upgrade

Step 1 – change battery plug

battery plug

To be able to do this modification you need to remove the plastic shell of the e010. It’s dead weight anyways. It pops off easily.
The 180mah lipos I wanted to use have the small JST battery plug. Therefore I had to change the existing one. I bought this 2 In 5 JST Plug Connector where I could source a connector and solder it to the e010 board. As you can see in the picture I stripped the wires so that they would protrude on the other side of the board where I could connect the camera. Be sure to check the polarity more than one time before plugging in a battery!

Step 2 – add camera power plug

camera power plug

Since I power my FPV camera module with the same type of battery plug that I removed previously I soldered it to the top of the board instead. Be careful with the polarity when doing this step or you’ll end up frying you camera. I will probably solder the camera directly to the pins instead of using connectors to save weight. With a small quad like this every gram counts! The downside of soldering it directly is that it’s harder to move to another model.

Step 3 – attach the camera

e010 with FPV equipment

The final step is the attach the camera to the Eachine e010. I used double sided tape to mount it directly to the board. I plan to 3d-print a mount instead like this one from Thingiverse.

Step 4 – fly!

Now it’s time to fly it. Make sure you have the center of gravity in the middle of the frame or it would result in power and flight time loss since some of the motors would have to work extra hard to compensate.

Upgrades

I’ve heard some reports of increased flight time and power when changing to the Chaoli CL 615 6/15mm motors. I’m sure that being able to use 7mm motors would also be a benefit. I’ve also seen someone cutting the quad blade propellers to two blade to gain more flight time but lose some punch. It’s all a matter or taste.

Replacement parts

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Eachine E010 Mini Banggoods own Tiny Whoop

Eachine E010 Mini 2.4G 4CH 6 Axis Tiny Whoop from Banggood

Image from Banggood

It looks like Banggood also jumped the Tiny Whoop bandwagon with their latest micro quad announcement. They announced the Eachine E010 Mini 2.4G 4CH 6 Axis Headless Mode RC Quadcopter RTF which looks like a Blade Inductrix aka Tiny Whoop clone. The hardware is probably the same as the Eachine E10.

Specs

Size: 9.5X9.5X5CM
Gyro: 6-axis
Frequency: 2.4G
Channel:4CH
Battery: 3.7V (150MAH) (included)
Flight time: about 5 minutes

There is no information regarding the controller and the motors but the motors are probably in the 6mm size judging by the lipo size.
Remote control parameters:2*1.5AA 5#(Not included)

The question is if it’s able to carry a Quanum Elite or FX797T camera/transmitter combo without any upgrades to motors and lipos. The answer is probably no.

Here are some more images:

Image from Banggood
Image from Banggood

As soon as it’s available there will be an review of it here so stay tuned!

More information and order

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Quanum Elite and FX797T range test

Quanum Elite and FX797T outdoor range test

Due to their enormous popularity a lot of people are asking about the range of the Quanum Elite and FX797T micro FPV cameras/transmitters. I did some googling and didn’t find any solid tests so I conducted my own. My test area is a big and open grass field with no power lines or telephone towers nearby. I placed the Quanum Elite and FX797T on a tripod about 1.5m above the ground and then started walking away from with my Fatshark Attitude V2 equipped with a skew planar antenna from Banggood. Only one of the cameras was powered on when testing them to avoid frequency interference.

Quanum Elite range test

Range test of Quanum Elite
I got to around 100 meters away when the static started to take over. At around 110m I could barely see anything.

FX797T range test

FX797T range test
I walked along the same path as I did with the Quanum Elite and at around 150 meters the image was almost gone. I would say that 140 meters was the maximum effective range during the test.

Conclusion

According to my tests the FX797T have almost 50% longer range wich surprised me since I though that the FX797T is just a rebranded Quanum Elite. They both use 25mw transmitters and the same type of cloverleaf antennas. To get a more accurate test result I would probably need to do the same tests but with more cameras since the quality of the hardware could vary alot. I’ve read somewhere that by using a patch antenna on the receiver someone managed to get over 300 meters range with the FX979T.

Quanum Elite range: 100 meters
FX797T range: 140 meters

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Another 3D-printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame

3D printed DIY Tiny Whoop frame for both 7mm and 8.5mm brushed motors

3d printed tiny whoop frame
Image from Thingiverse

I just stumbled across this Tiny Whoop frame on Thingiverse and I’m planning to print one. Hopefully it can accommodate a Hubsan board instead of the Blade Inductrix one. You can find the parts I’m planning to use below. The frame can be printed both for 7mm motors and the mighty 8.5mm motors. The AUW seems to be around 37g with 7mm motors, 205mah lipo and a Quanum Elite camera. The frame files can be found on Thingiverse.

Suggested parts list

Motors: 8.5mm motors
Control board: Hubsan H107L X4 control board
Lipo: 300mah 1s, 500mah 1s or 600mah
Propellers: Hubsan propellers
Camera / Transmitter: Quanum Elite or FX797T